Vinho Do Porto Essay

1830 words - 8 pages

COLABORO, COM HONRA e muito prazer, nesta cerimónia de lançamento ou inauguração da nova garrafa de vinho do Porto. As razões para o fazer eram muitas. A começar pelo vinho do Porto, a que me ligam respeito e amor indestrutíveis. A passar por Álvaro Siza Vieira, criador de espaço e senhor da luz. A acabar nesta interessante iniciativa de Carlos Moreira da Silva e da Barbosa e Almeida, apoiada pelo Instituto de Vinho do Porto e pelas casas exportadoras Sogrape, Taylor’s e Symmington.
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Tanto quanto sei e me permito deduzir, pretendem os promotores dar um contributo para uma relativa homogeneidade da garrafa de Vinho de Porto. Ao fazê-lo, não procuraram a via legal e compulsiva, mas ...view middle of the document...

Apesar de termos vivido várias décadas dominados pela fobia da diversidade e pela obsessão do regulamento legal e da imposição de regras e costumes, apesar disso, as garrafas de vinho escaparam à fúria normalizadora.
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É pena, pois há coisas que teriam a ganhar com isso e o vinho era uma delas. Em certas regiões e para certos tipos de vinho, foi-se estabelecendo uma norma, um costume facultativo, que tiveram, aqui e ali, relativos êxitos. Assim, por exemplo, a garrafa do Dão é comum a quase toda a região e a quase todos os produtores. No Doura e na Bairrada, deram-se passos nesse sentido. E no vinho do Porto também. Mau grado essas tendências, a desordem persiste. Ora, ao contrário do que me parece ser verdade de carácter geral '' a diversidade é uma riqueza '' uma relativa homogeneização poderia constituir um melhoramento dos atributos do Vinho do Porto, da sua imagem, do seu valor no comércio e da percepção que dele têm os consumidores e bebedores.
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Porquê?, perguntar-se-á. Não será muito melhor ter uma enorme ou infinita variedade de formas e feitios? Creio que não. A resposta está no factor de identidade. Há coisas que ganham em ter uma identidade forte. Ganham por muitas razões. Porque são mais facilmente reconhecidas. Porque ganham em personalidade e tradição. Porque transmitem a ideia de que existe uma vontade de estabelecer e controlar as regras de produção.
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O vinho vive também da confiança que, no nome e na origem, depositam os seus consumidores. As normas de cada vinho, a denominação de origem, as regras de comercialização e produção, todas estas ideias têm como objectivo o de criar uma identidade, defender uma qualidade e sublinhar uma capacidade reconhecimento. Diante de garrafas tendencialmente parecidas ou iguais, mesmo sabendo que o produto que está lá dentro pode variar, a nossa reacção é de confiança. Isto é, somos levados a pensar que o esforço de controlo e de acompanhamento da imagem é equivalente ao esforço feito na essência.
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Por outras palavras. Sabendo nós que o conteúdo é mais importante do que a forma e que esta deve obedecer àquele, também sabemos que a forma acaba por ter uma influência sobre o conteúdo. Perante a multiplicação e proliferação de formas de garrafas, de selos de garantia, de rolhas e de rótulos, é possível que se crie a sensação de que o sector está entregue à anarquia; que quem não cuida da forma, também não cuida do conteúdo; que quem não se preocupa com o acessório, também não se interessa pelo essencial. A acreditar no General De Gaulle '' “Il n’y a que les grands hommes qui s’intéressent aux petites choses et au détails” '' então concluo que a forma, o invólucro, a embalagem e o pormenor devem estar à altura do Vinho do Porto.
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Felicito pois os promotores desta iniciativa. Têm razão em dar alguns passos no sentido de melhorar a imagem e a identidade, através de uma relativa homogeneização da garrafa de Vinho do Porto. É, aliás, estranho, que a mais antiga região demarcada de...

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