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Surfing Essay

793 words - 4 pages

Bury me deep in the clear blue sea / Where the crashing waves will spray o'er me / Where my soul will rise with the rising sun / And be surfing still when the day is done." This was a poem written by Ron Drummond from the article "Endless Summer" (77). Surfing is a way of life. Surfing in is in many ways a search for that one moment with being one with the wave. Surfing might be a sport to one person, a relaxing activity to another but surfing to most surfers is a way of life. According to Encarta Encyclopedia surfing is the sport of riding waves with the aid of a board. A surfer usually rides the tapered hallowed out board and rides the front of a breaking wave. The ...view middle of the document...

Much of their time was spent in the water mastering these adventurous waves. Every Hawaiian regardless on income had a surfboard. It was used for sport, fun , and even travel to neighboring Islands. These people were also great gamblers betting everything they had on their wave riding abilities. Early surfing beaches were also the origin of early hang out spots where the people would hang mingle (Dixon 23). To get the first written accounts of surfing you have to go to the journal of explorer Captain James Cook. On his third expedition to the Pacific he made his first visit to the Hawaiian Islands. It was around the year 1778 and surfing was deeply rooted in the Hawaiian culture. In a failed attempt to kidnap the Hawaiian Chief to retrieve his stolen boat Cook was killed by locals. Lt. James King was put in charge of taking over the journey and cooks journal. It is in King's writings that we learn about surfing in the Hawaiian society. According to Polynesia With Love Ben Marcus states "Surfboard riding was layered into the society, religion and myth of the islands as baseball is to the...

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